Red Eye

Albania

Albania is underrated and also complicated. A majority Muslim nation, its only Nobel Laureate was a Catholic nun: Mother Theresa. It is customary to shake your head “no” if you agree, and “yes” if you disagree.

When the Soviet Union fell, there were 3 million Albanians and just 3,000 cars. In the past 100 years, it has been aligned with Russia, China, and the West. Over 700,000 bunkers remain in the country (at one point, I was even shooed away from taking photos of a majestic ship that was near a “naval base” on the side of the road!). And yet Albania also claims 30% of all plant species in Europe. There is no McDonalds, but there are an obscene amount of Mercedes. As the German joke goes, “if you can’t find your car, look for it in Albania.” The roads will drive you closer to your faith. Goat crossings. Mule crossings. Limping dog crossings. Passing on no-pass lanes. And while beer costs only $1, you can’t put a price on the Albanian riviera. Hard lives, kind people. The hospitality was amongst the best I’d experienced anywhere in the world. I feel lucky to have seen this place. I am rooting for its future.

albania

Best time
to visit

Albania

The ideal time to explore Albania is from May through October, when the weather invites coastal leisure and mountain activities. Early summer months like May and June are perfect for avoiding crowds while enjoying clear skies and green landscapes, especially in places like Sarandë and the southern coast. The warm months of July and August bring vibrant seaside life, but can be busy, especially in towns growing in popularity with travelers. September and early October often offer the best balance of warmth, fewer tourists, and quieter streets in historic towns such as Berat and Gjirokastër. Autumn’s soft light also highlights the stunning vistas and cultural rhythms of Albania’s interior, making the fall shoulder season a particularly memorable season to visit.

What to Know

Language: Albanian (Shqip) is the official language, and while English is increasingly spoken in tourist areas—especially among younger Albanians—it’s still helpful to learn a few basic phrases and to download Google translate on your phone. Italian and Greek are also sometimes understood, particularly in the south and along the coast.

How to pay: Albania uses the lek (ALL), and cash is still king, especially outside major cities. Credit cards are accepted in some hotels and restaurants, but having local currency on hand is essential for markets, transport, and smaller towns. Getting cash before traveling to Albania is advised; ATMs are not always readily accessible.

Safety: Albania is generally considered safe for travelers, with a low incidence of violent crime and a hospitable local culture, especially in rural areas. That said, petty theft can occur in tourist-heavy areas such as Tirana, Sarandë, and bus stations, so it’s wise to keep valuables secured and stay alert. The roads are often narrow and winding, particularly in mountainous regions and along the Riviera. Expect sharp switchbacks, livestock in the street, limited signage, and rocky shoulders—so confident driving is essential if you’re renting a car. Hiking routes can be steep and remote, so sharing your itinerary with local hosts and hiring guides when possible enhances safety. Visitors often note that Albanians, while sometimes reserved at first, are helpful and welcoming once approached, making solo or small-group travel both rewarding and secure.

 

Emergency response infrastructure is still developing, so having a local SIM card (Vodafone and One are the main providers) is advisable for connectivity; SIMs are affordable and available at airports and kiosks—just bring your passport for registration.

Healthcare: Basic medications are widely available at pharmacies (“farmaci”), and most pharmacists in tourist areas speak some English. However, bring a small personal kit with essentials like ibuprofen, allergy meds, and snacks, particularly if you’ll be exploring rural areas or hiking. In Tirana, the best-equipped public hospital is the Mother Teresa University Hospital Center (QSUT), Albania’s largest government facility, located in the capital (view on Google Maps). For faster service and more reliable English-speaking staff, many travelers opt for private hospitals such as Hygeia Hospital Tirana or American Hospital 1.

 

If you’re visiting Sarandë, the main facility is the Saranda Regional Hospital (view on Google Maps), which can handle minor issues, though it is more limited than those in the capital. In Gjirokastër, basic services are available at the Gjirokaster Regional Hospital (view on Google Maps), and in Berat, the main center is the Berat Regional Hospital (view on Google Maps). For pharmacy needs, Farmacia Luigj Benusi (view on Google Maps) and Farmacia 10 (view on Google Maps) in Tirana are well-stocked and reliable.

 

In an emergency, dial 112, which connects you to police, ambulance, and fire services. While emergency services are slowly improving, they are not always rapid in response—another reason why comprehensive travel insurance that covers emergency evacuation is recommended, especially if you’re planning to hike in the Accursed Mountains or explore off-grid coastal areas. For current travel advisories, entry requirements, and health updates, visit the Travel Resources section of this site or check your country’s government travel website.

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