Georgia
“It’s likely and unfortunate that you are probably only dimly aware of Georgia — the country, not the state,” Anthony Bourdain lamented in Parts Unknown. “It’s tucked away beneath Russia, next to Turkey, a contentious, strategic piece of real estate under constant pressure. You should know Georgia because it’s nice. Because the food is excellent. The country is beautiful. Some of the most beautiful scenery on earth. It’s a place you should absolutely visit given the chance. You should know it as well because it’s important. Because it emerged from years of Soviet rule into a chaotic, awful lawless period yet managed to turn itself around into a functioning democracy in a few short years.”
Of all the places we have been, Georgia remains one of the most unique – the most resilient, the most perplexing, the most intriguing. There is simply no place quite like it.
Best time
to visit
Georgia
The best time to visit Georgia is late spring (May–June) and early fall (September–October). In these months, the weather is mild and perfect for hiking, wine tasting, and exploring both the mountains and lowlands. The autumn grape harvest is a cultural highlight, with village feasts and wine-making traditions in full swing. July and August are warm in the lowlands but cooler in the highlands, making them ideal for mountain trekking in regions like Svaneti and Kazbegi. Winter (December–February) is ski season in resorts like Gudauri and Bakuriani. Tbilisi, the capital, offers lively cafés and urban exploration year-round.
What to Know
Language: Georgian (Kartuli) is the official language and uses its own unique alphabet; Georgia is one of only a small handful of countries in the world to do so. In Tbilisi and Batumi, you’ll hear more English, Russian, and some Turkish. In rural areas, English is rare, but locals are famously hospitable and eager to communicate through gestures, smiles, and endless toasts. Learning a few phrases like gamarjoba (hello) and madloba (thank you) goes a long way. Google Translate may also prove exceedingly useful in a pinch.
How to Pay: The Georgian lari (GEL) is the national currency. Cards are widely accepted in cities and tourist areas, but cash is essential for small guesthouses, village markets, and marshrutka (minibus) fares. ATMs are common in towns but may be scarce in remote areas like Tusheti or Svaneti—bring enough cash before heading into the mountains. Mobile payments are gaining popularity in Tbilisi and Batumi.
Safety: Georgia is generally very safe for travelers. Violent crime is rare, and petty theft is uncommon compared to many destinations. Exercise normal precautions in crowded places and on public transport. Roads in mountainous areas, such as the Georgian Military Highway, can be narrow, winding, and even deteriorating – driving in Georgia can be very challenging, and caution is strongly advised. Mountain travel requires preparation: weather can shift suddenly, trails are often unmarked, and mobile coverage is patchy or nonexistent in highland regions. Always carry water, warm layers, and a paper map, and let someone know your route. Tbilisi, Batumi, and Kutaisi are walkable and lively, with a strong café culture. Tourists to border regions with Russia should stay apprised of geopolitical trends and heed signage. Georgia is staunchly pro-Western, and guests from such countries can expect to be welcomed with curiosity and warm hospitality.
Healthcare: Tbilisi has several high-quality hospitals and clinics with English-speaking staff, including Gagua Clinic and American Medical Center Tbilisi. Pharmacies are widespread in cities and towns, often open late. In rural and mountain regions, healthcare access is limited, and facilities may only offer basic services. If you plan to trek in the Caucasus or visit remote villages, consider travel insurance with emergency evacuation coverage. In an emergency, dial 112, though response times may be slow in remote areas. The most common health risks for travelers are food or water-related stomach issues and mild altitude effects in high mountain passes. Bottled water is widely available; many locals drink tap water, but sensitive travelers may prefer filtered or bottled sources.
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